Fruits, Flowers, and Clouds wishes everyone a nice stay in Vienna and recommends the following:
HOTELS
Luxury
Sofitel Vienna StephansdomPraterstrasse 1
1020 Vienna
Tel.: +43 1 906160
Fax: +43 1 906162000
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h6599@sofitel.com
Average rate (double room): € 330TriestWiedner Hauptstraße 12
1040 Vienna
T +43 1 589 18 0
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office@dastriest.at→
www.dastriest.atAverage rate (double room): € 290
Le MéridienOpernring 13
1010 Vienna
T +43 1 588 90 0
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info.vienna@lemeridien.com→
www.lemeridienvienna.atAverage rate (double room): € 250
Middle ClassHotel – Pension ArenbergStubenring 2
1010 Vienna
T +43 1 512 52 91
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reservations@arenberg.at→
www.arenberg.atAverage rate (double room): € 200
Hotel KärntnerhofGrashofgasse 4
1010 Vienna
T +43 1 512 19 23
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info@karntnerhof.com→
www.karntnerhof.comAverage rate (double room): € 160
Hotel PertschyHabsburgergasse 5
1010 Vienna
T +43 1 534 49 0
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pertschy@pertschy.com→
www.pertschy.comAverage rate (double room): € 150
Schick HotelsTaborstraße 12
1020 Wien
T +43 1 211 50 0
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schick@schick-hotels.com→
www.schick-hotels.comAverage rate (double room): € 140
Cheap
Stanys – Das ApartmenthotelMariahilfer Straße 161
1150 Vienna
T +43 1 893 08 93
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office@stanys.at→
www.stanys.atAverage rate (apt.): € 100
Wombat's City HostelRechte Wienzeile 35
1040 Vienna
T +43 1 897 23 36
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office@wombats-vienna.at→
www.wombats-hostels.com/de/wien/the-naschmarkt/Average rate (double room): € 70
APARTMENTS
Designapartment WienGlockengasse 25/9
1020 Wien
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info@designapartment.at→
www.designapartment.atAverage rate (apt.): € 100
Apartments am BrahmsplatzBrahmsplatz 2
1040 Vienna
T+43 699 1234 09 11
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info@brahmsplatz.at→
www.brahmsplatz.atPrice range (apt.): € 85 to 125
Bed in ViennaSigmundsgasse
1070 Vienna
Rent: € 35 per person and day; 2 persons minimum.
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josephine.kaci@gmail.com→
www.bedinvienna.comCAFÉS
Café PrückelOut of the very many cafés that Vienna offers, the Prückel across the street from the MAK can be considered a »must-see«. The preserved 50s interior is almost always full, a good way to be alone in the crowd. Wi-Fi available.
Stubenring 24 (Luegerplatz), daily 7.30 am to 10 pm
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www.prueckel.atKleines CaféIt's not very big, but that doesn't really matter, one can find a good spot during the day as well as in the evening. The menu is small, but you won't find better open-faced sandwiches anywhere else. In the summer months, the café spreads out into the courtyard, an almost kitschy Italian feeling with church bells and a fountain.
Franziskanerplatz 3, Mon–Sat 10 am to 2 am, Sun 1 pm to 2 am
Café KorbThe owner of this café is the lovable and exalted Susanne Widl, ex-model and muse of the wild years of the 60s and 70s. Not only a meeting point for artists, authors, intellectuals, and actors, but also for the neighborhood shop owners. The legendary waiters don't serve, they administrate, and always have a joke on hand for their guest.
Wi-Fi available.
Brandstätte 9, Mon–Sat 8 am to midnight, Sun 10 am to 11 pm
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www.cafekorb.atEATING
Café EngländerThe verb »legendary« seems inflationary when mentioning Viennese cafés, but in this case, it can be used without any doubt. Famous for its resident guests, Martin Kippenberger was once a regular, the Engländer with its solid ambience remains the in-café for the local crowd between culture and politics. Its staff celebrates the cliché of the typical Viennese waiter by being charmingly huffy. A fine and varied menu with Viennese cuisine, cheap business menus at midday, often packed. Main dishes start at € 9.
Postgasse 2, Mon-Sat 8 am to 1 am, Sun 10 am to 1 am, T +43 1 96 68 665
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www.cafe-englaender.comGasthaus PöschlA tiny masterpiece by Hermann Czech, amazing cuisine (the desserts!), and if you're lucky enough to have the owner and local actor Hanno Pöschl wait on you, a miniature cabaret show is included. (AW)
Main dishes start at € 10.
Weihburggasse 17, daily noon to midnight, T +43 1 513 5288
Zu den drei HackenThe Viennese would probably say that drei Hacken is a »mélange«, a mix of a Viennese Beisl and a fine restaurant. The dark floor planks and the wooden wall-paneling in the smaller rooms lend the over 200 year old restaurant a beisl-like coziness, while the excellent Viennese cuisine (traditional roast pork and various sweetbreads) and the classically attired, discreet waiters attain gastronomic heights without losing that authentic touch. Reservations are strongly recommended. Main dishes start at € 9.
Singerstraße 28, Mon-Sat 11am to midnight, T +43 1 512 5895
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www.vinum-wien.atGutrufIt is said that it was here that one of the most glorious pieces in Austrian post-war literature was born. Helmut Qualtinger, the famous cabaret writer, used the Gutruf as one of his living rooms while developing his play »Der Herr Karl«. Without exaggerating, it can be said that all the celebrities between 1950 and 1980, including Wotruba, Hundertwasser, Erni Mangold or Hrdlicka, came here. Nowadays the Gutruf is appreciated for its charismatic and slightly trashy atmosphere where you can enjoy some of the best steaks in town and a curious mix of Viennese and Chinese dishes. Main dishes start at € 10.
Milchgasse 1, Mon-Sat 10 am to 11 pm, T +43 1 533 9562
Skopik & LohnOne of the things that makes the Skopik & Lohn special is its interesting combination of the original interior and the black and white painting on the ceiling, done by Austrian artist Otto Zitko. The menu contains a nice overview of contemporary Austrian cuisine and international specialities; the wine list is adequate. In summer, the pavement in front of the restaurant is one of the most desirable places around. Main dishes start at € 9.
Leopoldgasse 17, daily 6 pm to 1 am, T +43 219 89 77
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www.skopikundlohn.atCafé AnzengruberCroatian family business on the gallery street Schleifmühlgasse, with a crowd of regulars that is 90 percent from the art world, the best schnitzels in Vienna, and football showing on television. (AW)
Schleifmühlgasse 19, Mon-Sat 11 am to 2 pm, T +43 1 587 82 97
SchweizerhausThe real spectacle of the prater amusement park isn't to be had in a rollercoaster or a merry-go-round, the real show is at the Schweizerhaus. It is fascinating to watch not only the amount of beer consumed by customers under the canopy of the chestnut trees in the enormous garden, but also to see how incredibly fast the empty mugs are replenished with freshly filled ones. An army of waiters, automatic beer taps and a massive kitchen, serving up delicious roast pig knuckle and other substantial fare, quickly turns the casual observer into a slow-time connoisseur.
Prater 116, Mon-Fri 11 am to 11 pm, Sat-Sun 10 am to 11 pm, +43 1 728 015 213
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www.schweizerhaus.atWürstelstand am Hohen MarktTypical sausage stand (Würstelstand) in the centre of Vienna, open practically around the clock. Here all the different sausages are available: Frankfurter, Debreziner, Käsekrainer Waldviertler, to name a few. Choose between hot or sweet mustard and between a semmel (bun) or schwarzbrot (brown bread).
Hoher Markt, daily 7 am – 4 am
MUSEUMS / EXHIBITION VENUES
SecessionThere are three reasons to visit the Secession: the famous architecture with its golden dome, one of the key works of the Jugendstil period, the famous Beethoven-Frieze by Gustav Klimt in the basement, and the contemporary art exhibitions. This is the oldest white cube in the world and still operates as an artist's association. For the local scene, the Secession is a springboard to an international career.
Friedrichstraße 12, Tue-Sun 10 am to 6 pm, T +43 1 587 53 07
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www.secession.atGenerali FoundationThis concrete exhibition space, built in 1995 by the Viennese architects Jabornegg & Palffy, has been praised for its pureness and simplicity, and has influenced the style of a whole generation of exhibition architects. The Generali Foundation, founded in 1998, can take from its exceptional collection of conceptual and performative art, which has a number of works by Eastern European artists.
Wiedner Hauptstraße 15, Tue-Sun, 11 am to 6 pm, Thur until 8 pm, T + 43 1 504 98 80
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http://foundation.generali.atMUMOKThe MUMOK is the largest Austrian museum for Modern and contemporary art. It presents art history from classic Modern works up to the present day with an emphasis on Pop Art, Photorealism, Fluxus and Nouveau Réalisme. Viennese Actionism, Austria's radical and essential contribution to the international development of post-war art, is excellently documented with works by Günter Brus, Otto Muehl, Hermann Nitsch and Rudolf Schwarzkogler. The museum also shows in-depth retrospectives, including Maria Lassnig and Heimo Zobernig.
Museumsquartier, daily 10 am to 6 pm, Thur until 9 pm, T +43 1 525 00
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www.mumok.atKunsthalle WienOne of the most exciting places when it comes to pop culture and contemporary art. Most recently, there were exhibitions by Keith Haring and Bruce Connor, as well as shows on female pop art and »Street and Studio«, which brought the style of the street into the exhibition hall. The Kunsthalle Wien project space is a glass cube on Karlsplatz, a 10 minute walk from the Museumsquartier. Exhibitions here focus on young art, and it is a place often used for lectures, performances and discussions.
Museumsquartier, daily 10 am to 7 pm, Thur until 9 pm, T +43 1 521 890
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www.kunsthallewien.atBAWAG ContemporaryAfter several venue changes in the last few years, BAWAG Contemporary finally found a home in 2010. The program and standards are both high; solo-presentations include established artistic positions from an internationals niveau as well as young artists showing in Austria for the first time. Artists exhibited in the past include Jeremy Deller, Candice Breitz, Rodney Graham, Franz Erhard Walther und Phyllida Barlow.
Franz-Josefs-Kai 3, daily 2 pm to 8 pm, T +43 0 59905 919
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www.bawag-foundation.atMAKDuring the 80s, the MAK's permanent collection was reinstalled. Under the reign of director Peter Noever, established contemporary artists and architects rejuvenated the gallery spaces of the museum. Still impressive: Barbara Blooms Thonetshadow play and the oriental carpets on floating cement-asbestos panels by Gangart. The highlights of the collection include the Frankfurter Küche by Margarete Schütte Lihotzky and one of a kind pieces from the Wiener Werkstätte. Exhibitions about architecture and art have included Coop Himmelb(l)au, Joep van Lieshout, Franz West, and Elke Krystufek .
Stubenring 5, Tue 10 am to midnight, Wed-Sun 10 am to 6 pm, T +43 1 712 80 00
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www.mak.atBelvedereThe Belvedere's appeal lies not only in its excellent collection of Austrian art, but also in its architecture and location. The two main structures from the 18th century are connected by a 500m long, gently terraced Baroque garden, an ideal place to stroll with a view of Vienna after visiting works by Klimt, Schiele, Kokoschka or local contemporary artists in the Upper Belvedere, or one of the temporary exhibitions in the lower part of the complex.
Prinz-Eugen-Straße 27, daily 10 am to 6 pm, T +43 1 795 570
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www.belvedere.atNON-COMMERCIAL EXHIBITION SPACES
COCOCOCO addresses relevant questions pertaining to contemporary art production and presentation through a number of thematic and solo exhibitions, as well as a varied program of performances and talks. It is not only a space where curatorial practices are newly debated, but also where active social interaction takes place. The exhibitions take place not only in the presentation space, but are also the topic of discussion every Friday in the in-house bar.
Bauernmarkt 9 (passage), Thur-Sat 4 to 8 pm, bar: Fri 8 pm to 2 am
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www.co-co.atVe.SchThe Ve.Sch is a high frequency exhibition generator. Every Tuesday and Thursday finds something new – whether it be a special intervention, exhibition, concert or performance, mostly by local artists or students from the Viennese Academy of Art. Instigator and artist Martin Vesely stands behind home-made bar every Thursday, serving his guests into the small morning hours.
Schikanedergasse 11, Tue and Thur from 7 pm
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www.vesch.orgALTERNATIVE SIGHTSEEING
Sigmund Freud MuseumMuseum of one of the world's most important scientists, Sigmund Freud, located in the house where Freud lived and worked from 1891 to 1938. The birthplace of all you wanted to know – or perhaps not know – about your sub consciousness. Here, Freud developed his revolutionary theory about psychoanalysis.
Berggasse 19, daily 9 am to 5 pm, T +43 1 319 15 96
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www.freud-museum.atNaturhistorisches MuseumIn an architectural twin of the art history museum lies an unbelievable collection of over 25 million artifacts. Interesting to note is that the presentation has hardly been altered since the 19th century.
Maria-Theresien-Platz, Thur-Mon 9 am to 6:30 pm, Wed 9 am to 9 pm, T + 43 1 521 770
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www.nhm-wien.ac.atWittgensteinhausOne of a kind in Austrian architecture due to its formal radicalness. Not an architect, but rather a philosopher, Ludwig Wittgenstein designed the house together with Paul Engelmann, a student of Loos, in 1925 for his sister Margaret Stonborough-Wittgenstein (Completed 1928). Wittgenstein drew every window, every door, every window sash, and every radiator. Even though the interior of the building is not in its original state, one can still sense the unique workmanship and cleverly designed dimensions. It has been the property of the Bulgarian Cultural Institute since 1975, but is open for visitors.
Parkgasse 18, Mon-Thur 10 am to noon and 3 pm to 4:30 pm, T +43 1 713 31 64
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www.haus-wittgenstein.atWerkbundsiedlungVienna's modernist architecture, apart from Adolf Loos' building on Michaelerplatz, is rather hidden, but gains points for presenting individual solutions beyond the functionalist doctrine. As a counter-model to the huge socialist building blocks, the members of the Werkbund tried public housing projects in row houses that to this day are convincing in terms of functionality and aesthetics. (AW)
Veitingergasse 71-117, T + 1 877 76 88
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www.werkbundsiedlung.at.tfInstitute of Medical HistoryHoused artfully in vitrines of Rosewood, Palisander and Venetian glass, lie meticulously crafted anatomical wax models from the end of the 18th century. Veins are created from thin wires, lymph nodes imitated with fine silk threads, so that the over thousand specimens in the "Teaching collection of anatomic and obstetric wax models" are not only one of a kind historical medical documents, but also unique artistic artifacts.
Josephinum, Währingerstrasse 25, Mon-Fri 9 am to 3 pm, T. + 43 1 4277 63401
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www.meduniwien.ac.at/typo3/index.php?id=524SHOPPING
ParkPark is a highly prestigious fashion concept store. Its white, open spaces give the impression of a gallery, and that's just how the goods are put on display. Apart from haute couture, Park offers street wear, a jeans section, furniture, jewelry, magazines and the owner's (Markus Strasser und Helmut Ruthner) favorite books. Some brands: Bless, Raf Simons, Ann Demeulemeester, Vibskov or Fred Perry. You can also find fashion from the younger Austrian generation of designers including Pelican Avenue, Edwina Hörl or fabrics interseason.
Mondscheingasse 20, Mon-Fri 10 am to 7 pm, Sat 10 am to 6 pm
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www.park.co.atSongWithout a doubt one of the best fashion boutiques in Vienna. The shop was designed by Gregor Eichinger. Ambitious in art with an avant-garde touch, Ms. Saba
Song's high-end 500 m² store features labels like Comme des Garćons, Victor & Rolf or Walter van Beirendonck. Regularly, fashion designers and visual artists like Michael Huey or Jutta Koether are invited to exhibit in the store.
Praterstraße 11-13, Mon 1 pm to 7 pm, Tue-Fri 10 am to 7 pm, Sat 10 am to 6 pm
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www.song.atMühlbauerAn Austrian classic for head wear. Since 1903, this family run company has produced all different kinds of hats, ranging from alpine and creative hunting style to trendy felt cloches, from fur caps to timeless classics like the bowler or the panama-hat. Vis-á-vis the hat shop, Mühlbauer owns a fashion store with an interesting mix of established and new labels like Vivienne Westwood, Schiesser Revival or Citizens of Humanity. Both stores are designed by architects Kuehn Malvezzi.
Seilergasse 10, Mon-Fri 10 am to 6.30 pm, Sat 10 am to 6 pm
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www.muehlbauer.atLudwig ReiterThe welted men's dress shoes from Ludwig Reiter are a classic of Viennese shoe production, whether in the Viennese, Budapester or Oxford styles. The family-owned and operated company is in its fourth generation and has also incorporated women's shoes and handbags into their collection. Craft and quality are of the highest priority. Mölkersteig 1, Mon-Fri 10 am to 6.30 pm, Sat 10 am to 5 pm
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www.ludwig-reiter.comBuchhandlung Walther KoenigWalther Koenig Books has the widest international selection of titles on art, architecture, design, fashion, film and photography in town.
Museumsquartier, Mon - Sat 10 am to 7 pm, Sun 1 pm to 7 pm
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www.buchhandlung-walther-koenig.deSalon für KunstbuchA beautiful small space in the 7th district (near the fashion store Park) run by artist Bernhard Cella. He presents an idiosyncratic selection of artist's books and art theory that you can't find anywhere else in Vienna. The aim of the project is to establish a cultural dialogue independent of the big art institutions in town. If you find the shop closed, just phone him, he lives around the corner.
Mondscheingasse 11, Wed-Fri 2 pm to 7 pm, Sat noon to 5pm
T +43 660 445 7116
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www.salon-fuer-kunstbuch.atCABS
Taxi 31300T +43 1 31300
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www.taxi31300.atTaxi 60160T +43 1 60160
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www.taxi60160.atAirportservice RolkaT +43 1 9135231
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www.airport-service-vienna.atThe majority of short descriptions have been taken from spike art guide east
(Vienna 2009). The texts marked AW were written by Anselm Wagner and taken from the website www.spikeart.at.